Tips For Buddin' Growers!  still unda construction

Free the   HERB      and save the   WORLD save the forests woo hoo!!!    look at that !!! words of the herbally inspired   and  thier kids don't moan !!      grow ya own !!! links and web rings hey  say           G'day mate INDUSTRIAL  HEMP  take me  HOME   I'm  stoned

As you can see this page is still under construction
in the next few weeks i'll be adding links to growing tips and a few of my own

i grow organicly but i have used hydroponics in the past
so please return soon

if you have any tips or original pot pics ICQ me # 5089240

Heres some GROW GUIDES to get you started

best grow guide yet....THE MARIJUANA GROWER'S GUIDE... by Mel Frank and Ed Rosenthal I strongly suggest you buy the book....i did !!!! and now i call it "my Grower's bible"

Joys of an HERB garden at home; V 3
Herb garden at home

transplant shock can be avoided!!!!!! just water plants well, a while before transplanting ,
and use a weak seaweed based fertiliser to water them in

very comprehensive guide
marijuana growers guide

Hydroponic gardens
TOPROCK hydro grow tips

grow links SEED BANKS
STONEY'S cultivation page

Here's some info to read.

   Grow a *safe Crop in Your Closet                         						         by VuDu Furball

		Material List
1- 400w fixture & reflector
1- modular ballast for above
1- 110v computer-type fan
1- vaiable setting timer
1- outlet strip
3- 6-10ft extension cords
1- roll of Mylar
1- programmable Co2 egine
 (optional but vive la differance!)
1- 9x13x3in. baking pan
2- 5 pails
15- feet f 1/2in.surgical-type tube
1- combo tee&shut-off valve for above
1-pH test kit
1- pint Potassium Hydoxide
2-lbs. 10-20-10 hydroponic nutrient(part A & B)
1-lb   7-19-14 hydroponic bloom nutrient
1- pit micro-nutrients
2- syringes 1 small, 1 medium
1- ppm.(part-per-million)meter
2-dz Jiffy 7 plant strter pellet-pots
1-dz 10in dia- 10in.deep pots(straight-sided)
1-Petrie dish
24- The BEST seeds possble to obtain!
1- copy of this phile!

	Why would anyone want to grow pot in their closet? 
My reasons are many. I do not believe, for one thing,
 that the government has a right to abridge MY Constitutional right
 to "The Pursuit of Happines". Though I love to smoke out,
 I do not like to pay exorbitant prices to a system which at the top,
i its' worst form is responsible for crimes against the common man 
ranging from, but not limited to, urder, white slavery and de-stablization
of legitimate governments. I'm talking about not suitcases,
but rather ROOMS full of 100 dollar bills.The Big Boys.
Well, having said that I should also tell you 
that I have never sold so much as one Gram of my pot.
 If YOU do, it will undoubtably lead through unortunate twistings 
of Fate and coincidence to your getting busted.Kharma's like that.
 Guard yours an keep it good! O.K. no more lectures...
             Let's get on with it!

                      * * * * *

	Takeabout 12 of THE BEST SEEDS available to you 
and put them on a scrap of UNPATTERNED paper towel in th Petrie dish.
 Put about 2 tablespoons of room temperature tap water
in the dish, replace the top and put the dish in a warm totally dark place
 for 24-36 hrs. Remove dish after time is up from your darkspace
 and place the dish in indirect light, still keeping the babies warm.
 DO NOT allow the paper toel to dry out. Better too much 
than too little water at this point,but make sure when you add the water 
that the temperature doesn't shock the seeds.
	When you notice the seeds have mostly germinated ad grown tails
 about 1 to 1-1/2 inches, it is time to prepare the Jiffy-7 pots. 
(You can use alternat methods here but throughout the process,
 I have endeavored to produce OPTIMUM results. Any deviation from my method
 is toying with LOWERING that standard. Too many substitutions
 and you might end up gowing rope.Your choice.)
	Soak the Jiffy pellets in pH balanced,(6.5pH),water
 until they are fully epanded. Poke down 3/4in.
 with a pencil and with tweezers, gently plant the seeds
 with the point of the tail pointed down.
Leave the husk part of the seed just barely exposed.
place the seedling pots under an ordinary lightbulb
 in a shallow pan of 1/2 strength nutrient mix, keep warm and moist.
 In 3-5 das they should be about 1-2 inches above the level of the Jiffy Pot 
and established well enough to suvive being put under the lights.
 But we haven't got our grow-closet set up yet do we?
 Not to worry, 'ere's how to set it up...

	The closet that was the bst suited for my purposes 
was 2-1/2 ft. deep by 6 long and 8 ft. high.
Line the walls with the Myla.NOT aluminum foil 
as the inevitable crinkles will provide too many angles 
and that may confuse yourplants.
Hang the fixture-reflector-bulb assembly exactly in the middle of the ceiling,
 as close to the top as possible.The light won't be moving,
 so you can  fabricate fasteners out of 4 in. strips of cardboard
 and staple the wires fast against the wall,preferably in a corner,
 and run them out of the loset and to the ballast.
	Assuming your door is in the middle of the closet, nail
1x1in.strips 18 iches apart up the walls on both sides of the door
 and do the same thing on the back wall.
 Cut shelve corresponding to the depth of the closet.
 Now,when you lay a 6"x1"x66" board on two shelves of the ame height
 you will have a plant shelf upon which to put your plants.
	I place one long plant board in. from the back wall and 24in. under the light.
 The second goes about 42" from the light. Countingthe floor as a level,
this provides me with 3 levels, the lowest(floor) in front...
The mid-height in he middle and for the  shortest plants, 
the rear level is closest to the light.
This obviates the nee to put the light on a pulley system 
which doesn't adress the height-variation problem anyway.
	On the far left(or right) of the mid shelf
 place the baking pan and place the fan behind it on a piece
 of vibration absorbing material such as 1/2in. foamrubber. 
Point it ever so slightly upwards. By careful placement of the shelf itself,
 you can leave a between its edge and the left wall.
 This proides somewhat of an induction effect on yhe cool air underneath
 and this is exactly what you want. Sretch a thin wire 18in. above the pan
 and drape 1 in. strips of old t-shirt mat'l, long enough
 that the ends rest on the bottom of the pan. 
Fill the pan with water and when the water wicks up the clothstrips, 
it will be evaporated by the heat of the light and the fan will distribute
 it naturally arond your plants. This is your humidifier 
and if you leave this out your plants will die faster than yu ever thought
 possible. The fan wires go to the timer so it is always on when the light is.
	On eiter side of your reflector, repeat the shelf step 
so as to mount a shelf for 1-5 gal plastic restaurat bucket.
 Cut the tubing into 3 pieces: 2@ 3 ft. and 1 at 10 ft.
 The tee/shut-off goes at the junctin of the 'Y'
 this will make and this is your manual feeder for the nutrient solution 
which you will ix 10 gal. at a time.You should have a bucket for nutrient 
on each side of your lamp and reflector asembly.
 The tubing should be configured so as to resemble a giant stethescope
 with the long leg reacing the floor level.
	Connect your outlet strip to the output side of the timer, 
plug the fan and balast a.c. input and ground.
 I cannot overemphasize the importence of FUSING and GROUNDING all circuits
	It is of the utmost importence that the ballast be outside the closet
 because the tremndous amount of heat produced by the device. 
In an enclosed area that would be deadly to your plantsat best,
 a fire hazard at worst.O.K.? Then we shall procede!
  	I am recommending a 400 watt system ecause 1000 watts
 will tip off the electric co and then they'll probably pick that up to you-know-wh.
The 1000 watts performance is much
better but in a closet the lumen yield amounts to overkill. 
	Mot periodicity charts indicate
 the point of diminishing returns for cannabis indica  and cannabis satva 
to be at about 17.5 hrs. I have always pushed that envelope to about 19.5 hrs
 with excellent reslts. 
 This is the amount of time you should set on your timer 
for the growth stage. When the time comes to bud your crop,
 you will reduce this to 12 hrs until the sexes "show themselves",
the female bud develop and set and then you can inchup the photoperiod a bit
 when you get into mass resin productin. But more about that later.
 Well,it looks like the closet is about ready to go,
 so let's move righ along onto the next part.


	Everything, if you don't cout genetics, type and amount of light,
 medium characteristics,transpiration rate,
apmospheric composiion,pH balance and pest control! 
Just like any recipe, when you get these ingredients together 
in th right proportions, the result can be mouthwatering! 
	Speaking of water, you should make your waterup 
10 gal. at a time. Use the mixture listed above, 
available at any Hydroponic shop. under the nameGolden Grow
 or any similar variation thereof. The Micro Nutrients are, of course, 
essential. Without them the plant can utilize very little of what you
 are feeding her. Weigh your ingredients or measur VERY carefully
 because you absolutely MUST maintain a level
 of 1000 to 1200 ppm of disolved salts.
 f you take a small sample into the hydroponic shop 
where you purchased your supplys they should be glad to give you a reading.
 If you are good with a hydrometer,
there is a method of deriving ppm from secific gravity
but whatever method you choose, you must get a handle on it
 or you're back to farming rope again.
 the order of preference foe source water goes 
 3.Tap water.
 Whihever you choose,
balance the pH with Potassium Hydroxide to 6.4 to 6.6.
 Do not allow your solution t wander out of this range. 
The nutrients will throw it over to the acid side of the scale 
when you ad them but your readings and corrections for pH are done beforehand
 so don't worry about that 
.Just ake sure the water you start with is in range. 
Feed your plants every day and give them a good soakig
 unless you notice that the soil is still damp from the previous day.
	If you have provided proper drainage (rocks in bottom of pots)
, about 20% of each feeding should run out the bottom 
to some sort f catchbasin or tray under the pots.If this isn't done,
 poisons will build in your soil and kill you plants. 
A good medium is made from 3/4 potting soil and 1/4 sand. 
Add a handful uf vermiculite (unued catlitter) per gal. of soil mix.
I do not leaf feed because in this dynamic an environment
,solutios evaporating off the leaf before they are absorbed 
can leave an acid residue causing burning and clgging of pores,
 the leaf needs for transpiration of fluids.This is a high temperature environment
 so beware of doing things you might consider doing to a houseplant.


	Death by transplant shock is a function of ignorance. 
There is no other reason for it.Just follow the drections 
and you will lose not one plant!
                      I promise.
	The little leaves you first see when the seed usk falls away is called the cotyledon
 set. When you see the second set of serrated leaves 
just begining to form, it's time to transplant. Put a layer of rock
 on the bottom of a pot with a drainage hoe in it. Put 2-3 in of soil on the rocks.
 CAREFULLY remove net from Jiffy 7 unless root is poking though. 
If that is the case just loosen the net as much as possible without disturbing the root.
Set po on the dirt so the cotyleden leaves are about 1-1/2 inches 
below the plane of the top of the plasti pot.Shielding the Jiffy 
and plant with your hand, carefully add dirt,filling the pot in rotation arund the pot
 to a level of 1/2 in from top.Cover with 1/2 inch of decorative white fishtank gravel fo reflection
 and it makes watering damage non-existant.
Put the plant on the shelf that is 24-36 inchs from top of plant to bottom of bulb. 
When top reaches 24inches or starts 'brown curling', it's tim to move it to the next level.


	If you overtrim your plants they will pobably all turn 'male'
 at sex-determination time.
 Since the object of this little exercise is to prouce female buds, 
dont do it!
	This is what I do.
The first month, I try to pinch the main stem onceto produce two main stems. 
I allow one leaf set between pinches and some plants get the treatment agin,
 producing 4 main stems.
	The next 6-8 weeks, I trim large 'suckers' 
and side trim about everyothr limb-start-underleaf, 
traveling around the plant in corkscrew fashion.Shade leafs are a big targetfor me also.
 Look down on the plant for a bulbs-eye view of what constitutes a shade leaf. 
Don't getcarried away. Get any yellowing or wimpy inside losers.
 You'll know them when you see them.
	By now he pot is REALLY getting good to smoke 
so the tendency is to rationalize a reason to pick, pick, pic
 when you run out of stash. To avoid turning all your plants male, 
designate a 'smoker" and trim thehell outa that one if you must.
 When it goes male, KILL IT QUICK and any other males that happen too
Otherwise it will fertilize your females and when a plant starts seed production, 
it stops all resinproduction. Resins containing Tetrahydrocannibinol is what we are after,
 so don't dally when it come to killing off the males! Us and King Herod, eh? 
	For at least two weeks before entering the Bud Rutine,
 just pamper your girls and don't even pull off the yellow leaves.
 The girls are about 12-16 weks old now and depending on their specific strain
 and to a large degree, how well you've done YOUR ob, they should just about be ready to bud.


	First step in convincing the girls fall has come 
at last is to reduce the photoperiod to under 12 hrs.If  you were using a mercury bub,
 changing to a coated sodium bulb will further the deception by adding more red 
to the spectrum jut as the sun does as it plays lower on the horizon.
	As well, the nutrient must undergo a little tweking.
 You should go to a 7-19-14 mixture and reduce the micro nutrients by 25%.
 The amount of the daly feedings will drop dramaticly and you must guard against overwatering. 
Do not stress the plants b witholding water however or maledom may rear its ugly head.
	When buds set, kill males. Only removethoroughly yellowed leaves. 
	After buds establish and reach maturity, start diluting nutrient,
 cut ff humidity system and increase photoperiod gradually to no more that 15 hrs.
 If you have been utiliing cO2 richment, cease that also.
 Stress plants by under watering. Some people take sissors and slie up leaves to bleed them.
 I, Myself have split the stems between growth nodes low on the plant,
therby fooling it into producing extra resin. Resin is the plants defense mechanism 
and all sorts of thigs stimulate production. Mostly things to do with heat and injury.


	This is how Icure my produce.
	I pull the plants after withholding water 
(and the last weeks feedings are just tht...un pH'd un treated tapwater
 but very little of that!) I place wet papertowels around the rootbal 
and encase the ball in a baggie, sealed around the stem with a twist-tie.
 I hang the plants upside own by the furnace in the basement
 and spread newspaper underneath to catch the fallout. Slo-cure is best 
but there are as many methods of drying pot as there are of growing it.
Freezing pot will presere it the longest.
 Just take normal freezer precautions and it'll maintain its THC forever.
 Not so ina drawer someplace.

	Give away as much as you want to your friends but NEVER admit you grew it.Say  friend they don't know grew it. No harm there and it may insure you're around for the next crop. I' not saying your friends mean you harm but once you lose control of that information,ANYTHING can hapen.Murphys 
Law applies.Also, Loose Lips Sink Ships! Whatever you do, do NOT sell even so much as abowlful of your Artwork... You'll
be glad you didn't.

Well Buddy, I'm the VuDu Furball, 
and I say i's time for another Bonghit!

I dunno if I agree with all that but,( apart from the bong hit )'s a start

hey ! ! ! take me back UP

This page last updated on the 12th Stoned day of Oct .